Repairing Our Hand Rubbed Oil Finish

I include a copy of these instructions with the repair kit that we send to our patrons upon request.

Our tung oil and urethane mix and exacting, hand rubbed method give a surface unmatched to please the eye and hand.  The material develops the natural color of the wood and enlivens the grain.  The method produces the satin sheen and sensuous touch.  We don't use stains.  Because the color is natural and there is no heavy coating, the finish is easy to repair.

Evaluate the damage.  There are three types of surface damage, each having particular repair methods.

• Dents:  Dents are depressions resulting from a direct blow from a dull object.  The wood fibers are compressed but not cut or torn, or only a very little so.  Repairable depressions may be up to 3/16 of an inch deep.
• Gouges, tears, or chips:  Damage in this category usually results from a blow and/or dragging action of a sharp object.  The wood fibers are torn or cut, and a piece may be missing. Gouges, tears, or chips may be very deep.
• Scratches:  Scratches are very shallow injuries (1/32" or less) which may have characteristics of either of the above cases.

To repair dents

Steam them out.  Drive steam into the wood fibers with a clothes iron to swell them back into their original position.  This works amazingly well and is simple.  Wet a washcloth.  Wring it out a bit to the point where it is almost ready to drip but doesn't.  Hold a two-layer section of the cloth over the dent.  Concentrate the heat over the depression, usually with an area of the iron near the point, and press until the section of cloth over the dent and under the iron is almost dry.  Repeat with another section of damp cloth.  It may take a dozen applications of steam.  If the dent is now 1/32 of an inch deep or so, treat it like a scratch.  If it is still deep, treat it like a gouge, tear, or chip.

To repair gouges, tears, or chips

Call me.

To repair scratches

Sand them out.  Begin with the finest grit that will level the surface and proceed through finer grits up to 600.  The area of wood that you sand with the coarsest grit should be no larger than necessary to remove the scratch and maintain the profile.  The sanded area should increase in size slightly and overlap with each finer grit.  The grit to use at first is a judgment call.  Err on the side of too fine.  If what you choose can't get the work done, drop down a grit.  Use every grit in order up to the 1000.  I have provided 220, 320, 400, 600, and 1000.  400 is a good general starting place.

After sanding, repair the finish.  Put a little finish on a cloth and wet the sanded area.  Keep the area wet for ten minutes or until you feel it becoming sticky. Periodically rub the area with the cloth adding finish as necessary to keep the area wet.  The object at this point is to satisfy the porosity of the sanded area.  Wipe all excess off with a dry cloth or paper towel.  Do not leave any finish on the surface.  After 48 hours or more sand very lightly with 1000 and repeat the oiling.  You won't need to wait as long this time or use as much oil.  Spread the fresh oil thinly well beyond the sanded spot.  Wipe off excess.  The coarser the grit you begin the sanding with, the more times you will need to oil to restore the sheen.  Two times may do, repeat if not.  Oily cloth or paper may spontaneously combust.  Spread the cloth or paper outside to dry until crusty before disposal.

Call toll-free 888/334-0307 if you have questions